How to successfully grow Brussels sprouts
Brussels sprouts are a variety of cabbage grown for their axillary buds, which form small, rounded heads in the axils of the petioles, composed of numerous disassembled leaves, eaten as a vegetable. They produce a one-meter-high flower stalk in their second year.
Article Summary
A little history about Brussels sprouts
Latin name : Brassica oleracea var gemmifera
Order : Brassicales
Family : Brassicassaceae
Genus : Brassica
Species : Brussels sprouts
The History of Brussels Sprouts
After the construction of the second Brussels city wall in the 14th century, market gardening developed in the current commune of Saint-Gilles, outside the city wall. These market gardens gradually expanded considerably as all arable land was gradually transformed into cultivated areas, notably through drainage works. Market gardeners had to find ways to further increase their yields in order to cope with the growing population of Brussels. It seems that it was around 1685 that the people of Saint-Gilles created a new cabbage hybrid that was grown vertically and made profitable use of the cultivable land that was becoming scarce with the increase in the urban population. This very profitable crop quickly occupied large areas, and earned the people of Saint-Gilles the Brussels nickname of "Kuulkappers" (cabbage cutters). This hybrid was introduced to France in 1815, to England in 1884.
Etymology
Brussels sprouts take their name from their place of origin: the Brussels region of Belgium.
Taste
Brussels sprouts are a mild-tasting, slightly sweet vegetable.
Nutritional values
The nutritional value of cabbage is relative, since, like many vegetables, it is mainly water. That said, it is generally rich in valuable vitamin C, and the sulfur derivatives it contains have antimicrobial and insecticidal properties.
Anecdotes
Brussels sprouts are particularly rich in vitamin C. In fact, it seems that 80g of Brussels sprouts contains 4 times more vitamin C than the same amount of oranges.
Main subspecies and varieties
From Rosny, Groninger, Red rubine.
How to grow Brussels sprouts?
Technical information
- Difficulty level : 2/3
- Density : 4 plants/m².
- Life Cycle : Annual or biennial grown as an annual.
- Mode of reproduction : Sexual.
- Type of pollination : Allogamous with pollination by insects.
- Weight per 1000 seeds : Approximately 3.3 to 3.9 grams.
Climate and soil
- Climate zone and hardiness : Brussels sprouts thrive in temperate climates but also grow very well in colder regions.
- Soil type : Fresh, deep soil.
- pH : Neutral or slightly basic soil.
- Moisture : Well-drained soil.
- Exposure : Sunny.
- Temperature : Head cabbage does not like very high temperatures and will grow less well in the hottest regions of France.
- Climate-related risks / frost resistance : Brussels sprouts are very hardy and will withstand cold and frost well. The latter will even enhance the flavor of late varieties.
How to successfully sow?
- Sowing period : From February to May.
- Sowing type : Sow in rows.
- Germination temperature : From 13 to 30°C.
- Need for cold storage : Not necessary.
- Soaking : Seeds can be soaked for a few hours to improve germination, but this is not essential.
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Distancing :
- In the row: 50 cm on the row.
- Between rows: 50 cm between rows.
- Sowing depth : Barely covered.
- Rising time : 8 days.
- Thinning : Thin out 6 to 8 cm in all directions after emergence.
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Places and conditions :
- Under cover : Brussels sprouts are sown under cover from February to March.
- Open ground / without protection : Sow in a nursery from April to May.
Crop maintenance and care
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Soil preparation : Loosen the soil well before planting and add well-rotted compost (but avoid adding recent manure).
- Transplanting : Place the plants in place, 50 cm apart in all directions, when they have 4 to 5 leaves.
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Watering :
- Frequency: Regular watering.
- Quantity: Moderate watering.
- Period: Throughout the cultivation but more particularly during the formation of the apples.
- Tools : Watering can and hoe or hoe.
- Weeding : Regular weeding is recommended throughout the growth of the Brussels sprouts.
- Hoeing / weeding / earthing up / mulching : Brussels sprouts need to be earthed up during cultivation. The soil brought back to the base throughout the season improves their anchorage in the soil and allows for better root development. Once this work is done, they can be mulched to limit watering.
- Winter protection : Brussels sprouts do not need protection for the winter; they are adapted to it.
- Harvest period : From September to March.
- Plant part : The heads of Brussels sprouts are eaten.
- Stadium : To determine if the cabbages are ready to harvest, press the top of the head with your fingertips. You should feel resistance. The heads of early cabbages are often a little looser and more tender than those of late varieties.
- Average Yield : One Brussels sprout plant will produce between 20 and 75 heads, each 3 cm in diameter. This figure may vary depending on conditions and varieties.
Cultivation techniques
Crop rotation
To avoid attracting pests specific to the Brussels sprout family and to avoid maintaining the presence of parasitic fungi in the soil, it is recommended not to replant cabbages or vegetables or green manures from the same family, such as radishes, turnips, arugula, mustard, or rapeseed, for 5 or 6 years in the same location. In addition, Brussels sprouts are nitrogen-hungry, so they should be planted if possible after a soil-improving plant, such as broad beans, peas, beans, clover, or alfalfa. After the cabbages, root vegetables can be sown, which will draw nutrients from deeper down.
Companion plants
Some aromatic plants (with a strong scent) can mask the smell of cabbages and thus deceive pests that are located by the smell. You can therefore surround the cabbages with lemon balm, sage, rosemary, coriander, dill, but also marigolds or tomatoes. In addition, some plants, thanks to their essential oil content, have the ability to repel specific cabbage pests such as broom (which repels the white butterfly, the noctuid moth or the flea beetle) or elderberry (which repels aphids for example).
Technical gestures
It is advisable to stake Brussels sprouts because they grow very tall. Cut back the lower leaves as soon as they turn yellow.
Conservation and storage
Method: They are harvested in winter, as needed, starting from the bottom, where they are most mature. Then store the apples in a cool, freezer-safe place, or hang the entire stem in a cool, dark place.
Shelf Life: Apples can be stored in the refrigerator for a few days, in the freezer for up to a year, and apples on hanging stems can be stored for a few weeks. It's worth noting that they'll always be at their best if eaten within two days of harvest.
Uses of Brussels Sprouts
Culinary: Brussels sprouts can be eaten boiled, sautéed, oven-roasted, baked, as a side vegetable, or grated in salads. They are a winter green vegetable.
Diseases and pests of Brussels sprouts
Diseases
The pests
As for diseases, Brussels sprouts are susceptible to the classic powdery mildew, a fungus identifiable by its white felting on the upper surface of the leaves, which can be annoying. As usual, a well-fed and properly spaced crop will recover without any special treatment. Downy mildew is the main disease of cabbages, which occurs in cold, wet weather, especially on young plants. A spray of Bordeaux mixture may be enough to contain the disease.
Sowing them in summer is always a risk, as flea beetles (garden fleas) can feast on them. The inevitable forcing veil or insect netting is then required. Aphid damage can also be a problem. Most often, their natural predators, which live in our gardens, limit the profusion during the season. Otherwise, one or two passes of black soap are often effective, and especially when the quantities grown are not large, a simple manual collection is quite sufficient. It is also necessary to monitor slugs throughout the crop. To get rid of them, you can spread a band of wood ash or sow an anti-slug mixture. You can also install a slug wall or use beneficial insects. The cabbage maggot, the imported cabbage white, and noctuids can also invite themselves into this crop. Versatile solutions exist to get rid of them, such as an insect repellent veil or spraying tansy extract, which can get rid of all three. Pheromone trapping can also be useful for both white butterflies and cutworms.
