Pruning and training fruit trees

We try not to prune the scions to leave the arrow (or main stem) without branching so that you can grow it to the desired height. You can then train the tree as you wish. If the scion had to be pruned (for shipping or damaged main axis) or to ensure a better recovery, it is possible to reshape the scion: Plant the scion whose main axis has been cut cleanly above an eye, Let 15 to 20 cm grow back then fold this branch against the wood and attach it vertically using a tie: a new arrow has been created and will grow vigorously. Most fruit trees are sold already trained (cordon, U-shaped...), and it is enough to continue their training. But buying a scion, then directing it to train it is interesting to do and within everyone's reach, by practicing gentle pruning.Why train a fruit tree?Training pruning has many advantages: - adapt the plant to the dimensions of the garden by forcing it to take a compact shape; - improve the decorative aspect of the fruit tree by an elegant and regular silhouette (palmette for example); - encourage fruit set by limiting the number of woody shoots, or by forcing the branches to lean or arch; - facilitate maintenance operations and in particular treatments, by keeping the trees in reasonable dimensions, - allow different uses of fruit trees in the garden by offering flat shapes to train, possibilities of fruit hedges, etc. Pruning a fruit tree is a very important stage in its development. It allows it to be shaped, balanced, and given vigor for abundant and quality production. When pruning, part of the branch is removed as well as buds. However, the apical bud exerts dominance over the others. When pruning, it is therefore the first bud located under the cut that takes over and develops the most. It is therefore important to know how to distinguish the two types of buds on fruit trees: - Flower buds are swollen and round because they contain the future leaves and flowers, they are perpendicular to the wood and will produce fruit. - Wood buds are long and pointed and stuck to the wood, they will produce a branch. For a young tree, prune so that the terminal bud is wood bud while for a more vigorous tree of several years, prune so that the terminal bud produces flowers. Remember to remove any dead branches and vertical, suckering twigs, which will not produce fruit. For horizontal branches, shorten them by a third or two, checking that the number of flower and wood buds remaining is sufficient. Also be careful to remove any branch whose long-term development could hinder the main branches. During these steps, your fruit tree will be more airy and light will circulate more easily. Pome trees (apple, pear, etc.) form their fruit on the branches of previous years and on those of a year while for stone trees (cherry, peach, etc.), the wood that has produced fruit once is no longer capable of producing it. Favor the period from November to March to carry out your training pruning because the flow of sap is reduced, the healing of wounds will be better. Shapes of fruit trees The shapes of fruit trees are classified into two categories: open-air and flat, trained. Pruning allows you to determine the shape of the fruit tree according to spatial and production constraints. Full-grown trees are standard trees of varying height in the case of cherry, chestnut, apricot, citrus, olive and plum trees or clumps for small fruits, hazel, olive, hazel and medlar trees. Flat or trained forms require the establishment of a support to guide the development of the branches. Three forms are predominant: the vertical cordon (pear, apple), the horizontal cordon with one arm (apple, vine) and the devil palmettes (almond, apricot, actinidia, peach), U or Verrier (apple, pear). When to train a fruit tree? Formative pruning is carried out from a scion. The first intervention takes place at the time of planting (preferably in November), or a year later, when the well-established tree is better able to withstand severe cuts. Also intervene during the year to guide the young branches that are still flexible into the correct position. It is not possible to subject older trees to formative pruning, except to reduce their size. The different fruit shapes Chestnut trees, walnut trees, medlar trees, persimmon trees are left absolutely free to develop. Stone fruit trees, especially plum trees, cherry trees and apricot trees, grow much better in the open air. For small gardens, half-stems are preferable (branching height: 1.30 to 1.50 m). Peach trees can be trained in spindles or half-stems. Apple and pear trees are much more accommodating and accept practically all shapes. There are many fruit shapes, the most common being palmettes, double U-shaped, trident palmettes (with branches), two-tiered oblique palmettes, spindles, half-stems and tall stems (height about 2 m). Cordons are shapes exclusively reserved for apple trees. These are the smallest fruit trees. There are cordons with 1 or 2 arms and 1 or 2 tiers. Pruning a trained fruit tree 1 year after planting Remove all branches that have grown on the scion below 1 m from the ground. Arch the upper ones for temporary production. From April, focus on extending the axis by lateral pinching to free the main shoot. Disbud new shoots that are too low (1 m from the ground). Remove almost all young fruits the first year to avoid tiring the tree: it needs to anchor itself and strengthen itself. Remove any offshoots from the rootstock using pruning shears. Bend the fruit-bearing branches below the horizontal in late summer when they have reached 60 to 80 cm. It is important that the same person trains the fruit trees in the first few years of their life.