Sow in open ground

Whether they remain in place or are intended to be transplanted, we distinguish between open ground sowing and those grown in various supports - mainly clods, pots, terrines and cells - requiring the use of a substrate other than garden soil.

Sowing directly in place in rows

The technique

This is the basic sowing. The row is opened with the tip of the hoe and the seeds are spread evenly in a line. The furrow is then closed either with the tip of the hoe by bringing back the soil from the lips that have naturally formed on either side during the opening, or for slightly delicate sowings (carrots, parsnips, etc.) by covering with a mixture of sand and potting soil in equal quantities. It is then very important to firm down the sowing: with the back of the rake, the tongue of the hoe, or with a small roller like a lawn roller.

Finally, the seed is watered copiously: allow 15 mm, or 15L of water/m²! The best is of course to have a drip system, but watering with a spray head is also suitable. For true fine rain watering, water with the spray head facing upwards. The seed must then remain moist until emergence. Cover it with a fleece: it will be protected from the sun's rays, drying winds or heavy, often driving rain.

Once germination is complete, the seedbed must be carefully thinned out; any excess plants will be transplanted or offered to species that can tolerate being moved.

For which plants?

We therefore sow vegetable plants with long roots directly in rows (winter radishes and all-month radishes, carrots, parsnips, parsley and tuberous chervil, toad beets, salsify, black salsify, etc.), but also many others that can be moved: spinach, lettuce, turnips, chard, etc.

Sowing directly into the ground has the undeniable advantage of allowing plants to develop a much better root system than transplanting. The plant is not subject to any stress (which also reduces the risk of premature bolting) and is therefore generally much more resistant to drought.

Sowing in open ground nurseries

The technique of sowing in a nursery

It is carried out exactly like row sowing, but it is intended to be completely pulled up to replant the young plants at a good distance.

This method is used to limit the areas to be maintained while waiting for the plants to be sufficiently developed.

However, choose your transplanting time carefully: except for sturdy leeks, this operation should be done in the evening - particularly in summer - to prevent the seedlings from suffering from the sun's rays. Don't hesitate to shade your rows after transplanting, either with a shade sail or with upturned crates.

If possible, plant your seedlings in a spot in the vegetable garden that you frequent regularly. These seedlings generally require more monitoring than a traditional row, whether to limit weed growth or to control the presence of potential diseases or pests. There is no point in planting seedlings that are not perfectly healthy or that have suffered too long from competition from potential weeds.

For which plants?

This method is mainly used to sow onions and leeks, but also cabbages. Lettuce, chicory, endive, wild chicory, and even round beets can also be grown using this method.

Sowing in pockets

The technique of sowing in pockets

Why do we say poquet rather than paquet since they are in fact small packets?

The gardener places them regularly before covering and compacting them like any other seed. This method makes weeding easier, increases the wind resistance of these plants, which will support each other, and ensures regular emergence.

These pockets will then be opened with the tip of a hoe or a transplanting shovel.

After sowing, close them up either, and this can be the opportunity to make an additional amendment, with a mixture of equal parts sand and potting soil.

For which plants?

Beans, peas or broad beans, for example, can be sown in pockets without thinning at emergence, or courgettes, cucumbers, squash, etc. can be sown in pockets to be thinned at emergence. This technique guarantees emergence without "holes" and allows you to benefit from the better resistance of a plant that has not had to be transplanted.

Some seeds have meaning.

So, even if, due to geotropism, Cucurbitaceae seeds manage to germinate, sow your squash, zucchini, cucumber, and melon seeds by pricking them with the "hilum" downwards. The hilum is the pointed part of the seed, a scar from the point where the seed was attached to the plant. Germination will be even better.